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[Pulsador]

How do you measure the boost pressure?

Here someone has found that the sensor in the intake manifold can not measure more than 1.5 bar, for more is not designed. So also the additional instrument or software no longer display.

la mido con un mechanical boost gauge, nada de sensores(muy caros), lo tengo instalado al lado del rev counter y del reloj. Vaya spanglish...

[Pulsador]

Bueno tampoco te creas que las repros "115cv" dan 115cv... Yo creo que si rondas los 100cv ya irá muy bien, para sacarle más tendrás que hacerle una repro muy a medida.

esa es otra, lo que dicen por ahí que da el coche, y lo que da realmente!!

[Micha]

la mido con un mechanical boost gauge, nada de sensores(muy caros), lo tengo instalado al lado del rev counter y del reloj. Vaya spanglish...

Correct way, the only correct way.

No Problem, my translator will translate it in a readable term.

[Webon]

Correct way, the only correct way.

No Problem, my translator will translate it in a readable term.

Only correct way? roadster pod not well in 450?

Aspañol: ¿no marca bien el reloj de turbo del roady en un Fortwo 450?

[Micha]

I mean the way to check the pressuere.

In Roadster and ForTwo are the same sensor mounted- the sensor is the problem (max. 1,5 Bar)

[ZuL]

So how some tuned smart goes up to 1,6 bars?!

[maniac64]

SPanish: El sensor del turbo puede medir más de 1,5 bar. Cuando hice pruebas con el, conseguí lecturas de 1,8 usando un compresor y un regulador de presión.

GoogleEnglish: The turbo sensor can measure more than 1.5 bar. When I tested with, I got readings of 1.8 using a compressor and a pressure regulator.

[Micha]

In Germany we have some drivers, who check the pressuere with an hose- work- gauge.

Some chip- tunings will pressure from 2000 U/min with 1.8 or 1.9 Bar, everytime nearly the engines emergency operation.

It make very speed, but it's no good for the engine.

You can only see it in gauge when it a special one, in serious gauge (boost/temp) you see allways max. 1,5 Bar...

In my first roadster i drive some of this files, i make 115 hp and max. 1,5 Bar pressure. (I think it so) Now users check the pressuere of some files and see, the pressuere is over 1,5 Bar- but we see 1,5 Bar.

Maybe some sensors (or gauges) make over 1,5 Bar, but is it real?

Do you change the sensor/ Gauge and verified the pressuere?

It is possibility that go- but that is my experience, incorrect

[Webon]

Osea creo entender que......

el reloj de turbo a partir de 1.5 Bar puede que no marque bien por culpa de ese sensor de presion y estemos metiendo demasiada caña al motor sin saberlo.

Micha recomienda un manometro normalito para medir la presion.

¿Entonces como es que hay foreros que dicen que si les marca el reloj original mas de 1.5?

[maniac64]

En mi roadster nunca he pasado de 1.5 bar.

En mi F2 llevo un ordenador de abordo de MR.DOT, experimentando con dos sensores, consegui lecturas de 1.8 bar.

La prueba es fácil de hacer, un compresor, un manómetro regulable de control de presión , conectarlo al sensor y darle presión suavemente comprobando lecturas , que es lo que hice en su momento cuando mi F2 no tiraba.

[Micha]

please tell me:

What mean "F2"?

What mean "MR.DOT"?

[ZuL]

F2 = smart fortwo

Mr.Dot = http://www.misterdotcom.de/

[Micha]

Ah- ok.

I mounted the MDC- Gauge in my roadster for see the speed- my 32cm steering wheel blocked my vision to speedometer, i only see 0 - 30 km/h and > 180 km/h.

My actually tuning "Sportec" (suisse) make up to 1,35 - 1,38 bar pressuere, no more.

F2 we call "42"

[burudi]

tener claro que un turbo reprogramado requiere unos cuidados como calentar antes y si vas a parar -a repostar etc- dejarlo un minuto (mas mejor) al ralenti para evacuar calor con el aceite.

Y poner un buen aceite 100% sintetico (ojo,solo la palabra sintetico es semisintetico lo que supone hasta un 80% de mineral).

Si la merche no lo hace de origen ( y las cifras de potencia venden....) es porque se necesita algo distinto al conductor standard y la duracion es otra.

Y ponerle un radiador de aceite ( a poder ser con ventilador y termocontacto incluido) es una inversion y no un gasto.

patear desguaces de coche y moto .

el ventilador si no encontrais -dificil- puede ser de un pc,pero hay muchos tamaños en moto y scooter.

Editado 7 de Junio, 2010 por burudi

[Pulsador]

In Germany we have some drivers, who check the pressuere with an hose- work- gauge.

Some chip- tunings will pressure from 2000 U/min with 1.8 or 1.9 Bar, everytime nearly the engines emergency operation.

It make very speed, but it's no good for the engine.

You can only see it in gauge when it a special one, in serious gauge (boost/temp) you see allways max. 1,5 Bar...

In my first roadster i drive some of this files, i make 115 hp and max. 1,5 Bar pressure. (I think it so) Now users check the pressuere of some files and see, the pressuere is over 1,5 Bar- but we see 1,5 Bar.

Maybe some sensors (or gauges) make over 1,5 Bar, but is it real?

Do you change the sensor/ Gauge and verified the pressuere?

It is possibility that go- but that is my experience, incorrect

Micha, did you measure the power in a dynamometer? 115 HP with only 1,5 bar is a very good result!

[Micha]

Micha, did you measure the power in a dynamometer? 115 HP with only 1,5 bar is a very good result!

Just because 115 hp as good a result, some have measured what then is the correct charge pressure. And have found the boost of the original display of actual boost pressure is different.

Looking after the problem then the sensor was recognized as a problem.

The boost pressure on a tube measured were sometimes almost two bar...

[ZuL]

So you mean that people who is running at 1.5 bar may be running at more pressure.

Well, all of us thinks 1.5 is a safe pressure but 1.7, for example, may be not. This measure is a problem.

[Micha]

We thought whatsoever of the displayed pressure of 1.5 bar a certain pressure. Is only the other by the type of measurement found was the more pressure there is in the system. And has the original display device does not appear.

[Pulsador]

Just because 115 hp as good a result, some have measured what then is the correct charge pressure. And have found the boost of the original display of actual boost pressure is different.

Looking after the problem then the sensor was recognized as a problem.

The boost pressure on a tube measured were sometimes almost two bar...

Aha! You mean 115 hp but maybe 1,8-2 bar...

[Micha]

Yes, >110 hp need more pressure as 1,5 Bar.

My roadster have 100 hp, generated out 1,35 Bar...

More Power need more pressure, the only way to do it, only more gas is not the way, the mix of oxygen and gas will make the power. And more only pressure make more oxygen for a correct reaction inside the engine.

[Pulsador]

Yes, >110 hp need more pressure as 1,5 Bar.

My roadster have 100 hp, generated out 1,35 Bar...

More Power need more pressure, the only way to do it, only more gas is not the way, the mix of oxygen and gas will make the power. And more only pressure make more oxygen for a correct reaction inside the engine.

My problem now is too much pressure(1.5) and no more power with brabus injectors instead the stock ones...

[Micha]

My problem now is too much pressure(1.5) and no more power with brabus injectors instead the stock ones...

What pressure was times before?

Now you have more pressure and no more power as before?

Brabus injectors dont create more power in normal condition, the the helpful moment of the injectors is in times as "full throttle" more gas comes inside cylinders and make a better cooling and a engine- saver running (cooling exhaust- and entrance valve)

In case of new mounting parts:

Perhaps not yet, the control unit to the power increase, it need 3 or 4 "new start times" of the computer inside car.

For this the engine must have temperatures over 80°C, then shut down (light inside speedometer off), start new, drive a little, then next "shut down" ect...

After 4 Times the control unit will use new parameters.

A other simple solution to reset the control unit to better performance (after often "low speed drives":

1. Engine off (wait for shut down)

2. Ignition on (NO ENGINE ON!)

3. Kickdown (full throttle) and hold it for next step's

4. 5 - 10 Seconds wait

5. Igniton off

6. Less Throttle

7. Wait for "shut down"

8. Start Engine and drive.

[maniac64]

Brabus injectors dont create more power in normal condition, the the helpful moment of the injectors is in times as "full throttle" more gas comes inside cylinders and make a better cooling and a engine- saver running (cooling exhaust- and entrance valve)

But it represents more carbon into the exhaust valve and spark plugs, fuel not burning properly and increased gasoline consumption.

My car is mounted injectors Brabus and when at full throttle, the exhaust blasts out. Bang, bang ...

[Micha]

Sound like misfire in the exhaust?

[maniac64]

Sounds like unburned gasoline.

I have no catalyst.